Arabic class is finally underway, and I think I'm going to enjoy it. Because there are only 2 international students with any Arabic experience, my class is tiny. This will mean plenty of advantages for me. For one, individual attention from the professor is guaranteed. My professor's name is Rina Charash. Beyond that, she plans on letting us dictate the pace of the class. Therefore, there is no syllabus and our aptitude and ability to learn will determine how far and fast we go with Arabic. Plus, she is a very sweet woman! We will be having coffee and cookies or cake every day with class, and she told us to feel free to bring munchies in to share
if/when we choose. Maybe if I ever get a toaster oven, I will bake something.
One experience in Israel that is identical to its American counterpart is the feeling that you are hemorrhaging cash at the campus bookstore. Books here are plenty expensive, and unlike at American universities, there is no book buyback/used book option. Everyone is forced to buy a new book every semester. I would love to get in on the educational materials mafia in Israel. Sounds like it's a lucrative field.
My schedule is full now so here it is:
Monday: Arabic - 8:30 to 10, Hebrew - 10:15 to 12, Rabbinic Literature - 12:15 to 3
Tuesday: Hebrew - 8:15 to 10, Arabic - 10:30 to 12, Terrorism and Responses - 3:15 to 6
Wednesday: Hebrew - 10:15 to 12 (Whew)
Thursday: Hebrew - 8:15 to 10, Arabic - 10:30 to 12, Arab-Israeli Relations - 3:15 to 6
In 4 years in Champaign I never took an 8 AM class. On the other hand, Haifa is definitely not Champaign. Guess I should count my blessings. Tomorrow I leave for an overnight tiyul in the Negev. Stories and pictures are sure to follow. Shabbat shalom.
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Wednesday, October 17, 2007
Haifa Has A Subway!!!
This is of course more exciting for me than it would be for most people, but remember that I wrote my undergrad thesis on light rail. It's called the "Carmelit" and apparently nobody uses it because it only goes up and down the mountain, from Mercaz haCarmel to Downtown and back. Even so, I was thrilled. For your sake (but really for mine because I think this is beyond cool), here are some pictures of the train:
I've never seen a train like this before, but it's probably because Chicago is flat. The cars go down the mountain at what I guesstimate to be a 30 degree grade.
And of course, here is a picture of me with some of my friends in the international school, just before boarding the train. This all went down while I was touring Haifa this afternoon. We started in Mercaz haCarmel, which is a neighborhood I'm already superficially familiar with. It's pretty upscale, lots of bars and cafes. The uppermost station for the Carmelit is in the center of the neighborhood, on Moriah street. We took the train down the mountain to Hadar, an older neighborhood in Haifa. Getting there by train takes 5 minutes, while getting there by bus takes about a half an hour.
Hadar used to be the nicest shopping district in Haifa. This is before the mall was built. Personally I prefer the shops and the local businesses, but globalization only moves forward. For better or for worse, the landscape has changed. For Hadar, it has changed for the worse. The shops are still there and there is a nice shuk where I bought some very cheap bananas (3 shekels per kilo.) As the shops were becoming an afterthought, wealthy people began to leave Hadar and move further up the mountain. The result is that Hadar has become a less than savory neighborhood. Nice to visit, and the fruits and vegetables in the shuk are very inexpensive, but I would not want to live there.
I've never seen a train like this before, but it's probably because Chicago is flat. The cars go down the mountain at what I guesstimate to be a 30 degree grade.
And of course, here is a picture of me with some of my friends in the international school, just before boarding the train. This all went down while I was touring Haifa this afternoon. We started in Mercaz haCarmel, which is a neighborhood I'm already superficially familiar with. It's pretty upscale, lots of bars and cafes. The uppermost station for the Carmelit is in the center of the neighborhood, on Moriah street. We took the train down the mountain to Hadar, an older neighborhood in Haifa. Getting there by train takes 5 minutes, while getting there by bus takes about a half an hour.
Hadar used to be the nicest shopping district in Haifa. This is before the mall was built. Personally I prefer the shops and the local businesses, but globalization only moves forward. For better or for worse, the landscape has changed. For Hadar, it has changed for the worse. The shops are still there and there is a nice shuk where I bought some very cheap bananas (3 shekels per kilo.) As the shops were becoming an afterthought, wealthy people began to leave Hadar and move further up the mountain. The result is that Hadar has become a less than savory neighborhood. Nice to visit, and the fruits and vegetables in the shuk are very inexpensive, but I would not want to live there.
Tuesday, October 16, 2007
Cold Weather = Shit
It's going to be cold on the Carmel in winter. Of this much I'm certain. Not Chicago cold, and I doubt we will see any snow, but cold nonetheless. People are already wearing sweaters and hoodies around the campus at night, because it goes down into the 50's with a heavy wind. I guess if I'm going to make it to the beach it had better be soon.
If I do go, it will probably be with another relative of mine, Prechia. Unlike with the Mor's, she and I only speak in Hebrew with each other. She is quite fond of the waterfront, and when she called me the other day, all she wanted to know was when I would be free to go to the beach with her. I haven't forgotten that the last time we went, I was stung by a bee.
Classes are in full swing now. I've had three classes already (Talmud, Hebrew and "Terrorism and Responses") and so far I am enjoying all of them. Seeing as I'm registered for an unmanageable 20 hours right now, I hope that one of these classes seriously sucks. Otherwise it is going to be tough to choose. I am definitely taking Hebrew and Arabic. Beyond that is anyone's guess, but I would like to keep the classes I have already been to. I did get a syllabus via email for a class entitled "Media in War and Crisis" and it will be a massive amount of work if I decide to keep it: 9 weekly assignments, a term project and 20 page research paper. Suffice it to say, that sort of stacks the deck against me keeping this class, but I'll reserve judgment until I've sat in on the class.
If I do go, it will probably be with another relative of mine, Prechia. Unlike with the Mor's, she and I only speak in Hebrew with each other. She is quite fond of the waterfront, and when she called me the other day, all she wanted to know was when I would be free to go to the beach with her. I haven't forgotten that the last time we went, I was stung by a bee.
Classes are in full swing now. I've had three classes already (Talmud, Hebrew and "Terrorism and Responses") and so far I am enjoying all of them. Seeing as I'm registered for an unmanageable 20 hours right now, I hope that one of these classes seriously sucks. Otherwise it is going to be tough to choose. I am definitely taking Hebrew and Arabic. Beyond that is anyone's guess, but I would like to keep the classes I have already been to. I did get a syllabus via email for a class entitled "Media in War and Crisis" and it will be a massive amount of work if I decide to keep it: 9 weekly assignments, a term project and 20 page research paper. Suffice it to say, that sort of stacks the deck against me keeping this class, but I'll reserve judgment until I've sat in on the class.
Sunday, October 14, 2007
Setlling In
My hot water is fixed! Just in time too. Last night I went into the woods with most of the international students for dinner and a bonfire. It was a great time but naturally, I ended up covered in soot and smelling like smoke. I'm starting to learn where things are in the city too. I've had separate outings to the "Bear Pub" and the גרנד קניון (Grand Canyon) mall.
The mall outing was a near disaster, but funny anyway. I went with a group of guys from the trip, taking the 24 bus down the Carmel. We did not know that the bus does not go up to the entrance to the mall, but rather it stops about a 5 minute walk from the entrance. We weren't sure when we were about to pass the mall anyhow because the streets in Haifa are winding and roll with the hills. When we realized we had probably passed it, I asked the bus driver where to get off; he responded by yelling at us for not getting off earlier, and throwing us off the bus!
We ended up walking back up the mountain, and had to run across the street on several occasions. In Israel, this is a death wish. Luckily everyone arrived in one piece and I was finally able to outfit my apartment with some food, cleaning supplies and a bathroom rug.
This morning was the Hebrew placement test. It was tough but I think I will be placed pretty high. The Professor giving the oral exam seemed to indicate so much. I'll know later tonight at any rate. My first class at the University was on Talmud. It was pretty cool, and definitely not what I expected. I figured the teacher would be a super serious black hatter. A real West Rogers Park type, only east of the pond. Way wrong. While clearly religious (he wore a knit kippa), he was fresh, entertaining and pretty funny. I think I am going to like this class.
Just one thing I got a laugh out of: Classes around here are scheduled to start on the hour. For example, this Talmud class is scheduled for 12-3 on Monday. The class (and all other classes at the University) actually start 15 minutes later. I know its a stereotype and all, but how Israeli is that?
The mall outing was a near disaster, but funny anyway. I went with a group of guys from the trip, taking the 24 bus down the Carmel. We did not know that the bus does not go up to the entrance to the mall, but rather it stops about a 5 minute walk from the entrance. We weren't sure when we were about to pass the mall anyhow because the streets in Haifa are winding and roll with the hills. When we realized we had probably passed it, I asked the bus driver where to get off; he responded by yelling at us for not getting off earlier, and throwing us off the bus!
We ended up walking back up the mountain, and had to run across the street on several occasions. In Israel, this is a death wish. Luckily everyone arrived in one piece and I was finally able to outfit my apartment with some food, cleaning supplies and a bathroom rug.
This morning was the Hebrew placement test. It was tough but I think I will be placed pretty high. The Professor giving the oral exam seemed to indicate so much. I'll know later tonight at any rate. My first class at the University was on Talmud. It was pretty cool, and definitely not what I expected. I figured the teacher would be a super serious black hatter. A real West Rogers Park type, only east of the pond. Way wrong. While clearly religious (he wore a knit kippa), he was fresh, entertaining and pretty funny. I think I am going to like this class.
Just one thing I got a laugh out of: Classes around here are scheduled to start on the hour. For example, this Talmud class is scheduled for 12-3 on Monday. The class (and all other classes at the University) actually start 15 minutes later. I know its a stereotype and all, but how Israeli is that?
Friday, October 12, 2007
Into The City
The international school ranks are starting to swell. Not everyone here is American either. In the program are people from Canada, Germany, South Korea, the U.K., Denmark, Hungary, and one guy from India. It truly is an international school. What has really surprised me is that not everyone in the program is Jewish. I guess I'm just shortsighted, but it never occurred to me that non Jews would want to come for a long term program in Israel.
I went to Shabbat evening services Friday night. Haven't done that in college for years. It was an orthodox service and not well attended. We did not have ten men there. Of course, had I been counting the minyan we would have been straight. There were 4 times as many women in attendance. This just reinforces that I'm definitely not headed in that direction. I just don't like the mechitza.
Still no hot water, although I'm hoping I can get that fixed tomorrow. I did pick up a little produce in the shuk this afternoon so I can feed myself. The day trip was pretty cool. The Baha'i Gardens are as beautiful as I remembered. It was much warmer in the lower parts of the city than it is on the Carmel. I went cheap for lunch, falafel from a stand in the Wadi Nisnas neighborhood. I tried out a little Arabic with the shop owner. It was forced and I'm sure my pronunciation was not very good but he smiled anyway. All in all it was a nice first Shabbat in Israel. Tomorrow is orientation and class registration.
I went to Shabbat evening services Friday night. Haven't done that in college for years. It was an orthodox service and not well attended. We did not have ten men there. Of course, had I been counting the minyan we would have been straight. There were 4 times as many women in attendance. This just reinforces that I'm definitely not headed in that direction. I just don't like the mechitza.
Still no hot water, although I'm hoping I can get that fixed tomorrow. I did pick up a little produce in the shuk this afternoon so I can feed myself. The day trip was pretty cool. The Baha'i Gardens are as beautiful as I remembered. It was much warmer in the lower parts of the city than it is on the Carmel. I went cheap for lunch, falafel from a stand in the Wadi Nisnas neighborhood. I tried out a little Arabic with the shop owner. It was forced and I'm sure my pronunciation was not very good but he smiled anyway. All in all it was a nice first Shabbat in Israel. Tomorrow is orientation and class registration.
First Impressions
I arrived in Israel Wednesday afternoon and it's been a whirlwind three days thus far. I took a rush hour commuter train from the airport in Lod to Haifa, then a cab from the train station to my cousin's house in the Ramat Eshkol neighborhood. Menachem is a professor at the University of Haifa and Devorah is a teacher in Haifa. Here is a photo of Devorah and I at their home in Haifa. I spent my first night in Israel at their house, before moving into my dorm on campus yesterday.
The dorm is nothing to write home about. First of all, none of my roommates have arrived yet. One of them is in the international school like me, so I assume I will meet him very soon. At the latest we have to be here by Sunday for orientation. The other three are Israeli and I don't know when they will arrive. School for the regular students doesn't begin until October 21st.
I haven't yet figured out how to use my hot water. I have a feeling I am doing something wrong, or at least I hope I am. There is a switch on the wall next to the bathroom that I think is supposed to heat the water, but I turned it on 45 minutes before showering and the water could charitably be called cool. At least this will make it easy for me to conserve! I even boiled water in the coffee pot so I could shave comfortably.
The area the dorms are in is beautiful. I have a garden right outside my bedroom window. There are trees everywhere, its warm and sunny, and the whole campus smells like flowers. I know winter and the rains will arrive eventually, but I don't mind that this weather will linger for a while.
I haven't had much of an opportunity to speak Hebrew yet. Most Israelis are not here yet, and everyone in the international school is speaking English. There are fewer Americans here than I expected. Many people are Canadian or from Europe. I did meet a girl from Lakeview and a guy from Wilmette, and also another guy who goes to school at DePaul. It's like I never left home at all!
There is a Shabbat dinner tonight for all the international students, and then a trip tomorrow morning outside of campus. I haven't figured out where things are here yet, but hopefully soon I will be able to start exploring the city on my own.
The dorm is nothing to write home about. First of all, none of my roommates have arrived yet. One of them is in the international school like me, so I assume I will meet him very soon. At the latest we have to be here by Sunday for orientation. The other three are Israeli and I don't know when they will arrive. School for the regular students doesn't begin until October 21st.
I haven't yet figured out how to use my hot water. I have a feeling I am doing something wrong, or at least I hope I am. There is a switch on the wall next to the bathroom that I think is supposed to heat the water, but I turned it on 45 minutes before showering and the water could charitably be called cool. At least this will make it easy for me to conserve! I even boiled water in the coffee pot so I could shave comfortably.
The area the dorms are in is beautiful. I have a garden right outside my bedroom window. There are trees everywhere, its warm and sunny, and the whole campus smells like flowers. I know winter and the rains will arrive eventually, but I don't mind that this weather will linger for a while.
I haven't had much of an opportunity to speak Hebrew yet. Most Israelis are not here yet, and everyone in the international school is speaking English. There are fewer Americans here than I expected. Many people are Canadian or from Europe. I did meet a girl from Lakeview and a guy from Wilmette, and also another guy who goes to school at DePaul. It's like I never left home at all!
There is a Shabbat dinner tonight for all the international students, and then a trip tomorrow morning outside of campus. I haven't figured out where things are here yet, but hopefully soon I will be able to start exploring the city on my own.
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